To build my tunnels, I first had to dig out the slope. Once I had a base which was either level or at the appropriate grade, I then started on the walls of the tunnel.

The tunnel walls were built up using concrete bricks or blocks, depending on how much space was available. The blocks were glued together with urethane glue. This has proved to be sufficient. You could also use a heavy duty construction adhesive.

The interior walls of the tunnel near the ends were textured to simulate the look of stone. I did this by spreading tinted mortar onto crumpled aluminum foil which had been sprayed with Pam. This prevents the mortar from sticking to the foil. Then the foil and wet mortar are pressed against the tunnel wall. After the mortar hardens the aluminum foil is peeled off, revealing a rocky texture.

Farther in, the tunnel is simply painted flat black.

Reinforced concrete slabs were cast to cover the top of the tunnel. I used 6” x 16” x 2” concrete capstones to make simple forms on the floor of my garage. I then covered the form with a large plastic trash bag. Hardware cloth was cut to fit into the form -- usually two layers of it. I also added 2-3 short pieces of 3/8” steel rebar. High strength concrete was then poured into the form. After it sets, just move aside the capstones from around it, and lift out the slab. Be sure not to make the slabs too big or you won’t be able to lift them!

My longer tunnels have access panels which double as steps on the upper level pathway. These are slabs constructed as described above, but they also have steel eye bolts set into them. The eye of the bolt is recessed into the upper surface of the slab. I can then use hooks to lift out the slabs when necessary.

These removable slabs were later covered with inexpensive outdoor carpeting which has a rubberized backing. These reduces the amount of water or dirt that can seep in around the slabs and possibly foul the track

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